Wednesday, June 10, 2020

Swat-Heaven on earth


It was December 2018, when my work routine was pulling me down. Dark circles, puffy, and spiritless eyes could be noticed in just a glimpse. It was then when I saw an advertisement for Footslog Travels and Tours for a 10-days trip to Swat. Being a Karachiite, I was just a bit concerned about the weather because in Swat the temperature goes down to -25 degrees. But, as my soul was eager to have a break, I had a leap of faith and got myself registered for the trip.


It was the 2nd of January, 2019 when we left Karachi. It took us 24-hours by bus. All the way, I admired beautiful villages and towns stretched out miles and miles away. Crops and endless fields looked like a green carpet lay all around. Seeing villagers working in fields, simple yet a quality way of living.  Fields of dates, coconut, and corns stretched out miles and miles away. The beautiful journey made me stay awake all the way, as I didn’t want to miss the scenes through my window.



The temperature was going down as we were approaching KPK. As we reached Swat, we could see the vapors coming of our mouth as we spoke. It was 3 degrees and we were freezing already, so we had to put on two more layers of jackets and sweaters. On reaching Khuazakhela, the sun was about to rise. As we climbed up, the rays of sunlight first touched the topmost mountain we could see, as it was set ablaze. All the mountains were as dark as night except for the peak of one mountain. As the light started spreading all over, bit by bit, beautiful scenery appeared all around us. It was one of the best scenes I had ever seen. The hills were covered with half green, half brown and leafless trees, with some snow at the top. Deep ditches between the valley gave us ticklish feeling in the stomach. 




We drove up hills for four more hours to reach Madyan. The more we go up, the more we admired the beauty of nature. Despite the long journey and exhaustion, I felt as if I already had started to heal. No more headaches and sickness.
The chilly air blew as we stepped out to have breakfast. I shivered. But it was fun to experience something new. A good breakfast of chai, partha, omelet, choley, and a garam garam cup of chai in this weather seemed like the best combination on earth. 

One of the features that is hard to overlook in Swat is; the rocks. Beautiful, round, and smooth rocks and pebbles of every size and shape could be seen all around the lakes and waterfalls. Some are so enormous to be moved by a human. A perfect place to sit and click pictures.









We spent the whole day sightseeing in valleys. During the journey, we met several locals. The people of Swat were found to be one of the most hospitable I had ever seen. They are ready to help each other all the time. Their simple living has taught them to live for others. They prefer human connection over tangible stuff.
Sometimes we just stopped at beautiful places, took pictures, and spent time quietly with deep breathing, in self-reflection. I just wanted to breathe-in the surrounding into me, as much as I can. I wanted to absorb the experience in every bit of my soul, and every cell of my body.
At night, we booked a hotel in front of the river. In the dark, the sky full of stars and the burbling river sounded like a different world. Away from the hustle and bustle of the city. No smoke, ear-piercing honking horns, and bumper to bumper traffic. That night, we experienced a sound sleep.


The next morning at 9:00 A.M, we left for one of the most popular attractions of Swat, Kalam, and Shangla top, where I experienced the first snowfall of my life. As the tiny flakes of snow and cool breeze touched my face, I felt myself healing. It felt as if the surrounding is talking to me. I could hear the inaudible whispers of the hills, the mist in the air, the crystals of the snow, and the movement of the deciduous trees, that stand tall in every harsh weather. I felt as if that place was a piece of heaven on earth. It heals even more than medicine. I could feel the unseen weight being lifted off my shoulders. 



As it started snowing heavily, we were freezing but our excitement kept us warm. White mist and snow were all around us. The water dripping from the rocks and waterfalls had become ice. We stopped there to have tea and stayed there for a day in a rest house. The temperature was -16 degrees. Water in taps froze and there was a thick layer of ice in the buckets. The funniest thing was; we washed our hands and face only when extremely necessary, and that was the only part I prevented myself from sharing with my friends. 
We bought the chicken and started preparing for the barbecue and bonfire. I mark it the hardest nights of our trip, as there were no proper arrangements for a heater in the rest house. What was more surprising for me was the stamina of the residents who bear this weather with visible gratitude on their face. Though we had been waiting for the morning because of unbearable weather, why not living the moment instead? So we played guitar, sang some songs while enjoying the BBQ.

It was so bitter cold that the base of the bonfire was still ice although it had been ablaze for more than two hours. But that did not stop us from enjoying. The snow had become ice in almost all over the floor. So we found a slope of the driveway, put a big plastic bag, and started taking slides. I had never enjoyed this much before.









In Kalam, Ushu forest is a well-known tourist attraction. If you are wearing a cap, it might fell off, if you stretch your neck up to see the treetop. The place is so quiet and peaceful. And our voice echoed around the forest. I wondered how would this place look like in summer, that encouraged me to visit Swat again in Summer. 






Next day we left for Malam Jabba, the most famous destination, and the highest point of Swat. In summer, it’s open for the chair lift. But in winter, it’s a wonderful place for snow sliding. The road to Malam Jabba is one of the most dangerous. It’s a narrow, two-way, wet, and a bumpy road. On every turn, we held our breath. But the excitement kept us going. The clouds, riding with us was so mesmerizing. 
Because of heavy mist and snowfall, the roads were found to be blocked. It was a bit disappointing but considering the risk, we preferred to go back. So we decided to spend a good time with lunch and tea and headed for our way back.







I caught myself in a series of questions, whenever I look at the lifeless and dry trees. Were they ever full of leaves? Full of flowers and fruits? Will they be cut down and replaced by another plant in Summer? No. Allah will grow new leaves and fruits from the same lifeless and seemingly dead wood. 
At the instant, I could feel the true meaning of hope. Allah can grow life from the dead. And dead from a life. He is Supreme. Every year He sheds off and grows the leaves from the same wood. And the tree trunk grows bigger and stronger despite the harsh weather. Why do we become easily hopeless in hard times and forget that Him will take care of it? I felt as if I heard another whisper. Whispers of the trees, addressing me, and enlightening me with the faith in Him.



The best food we had there was Chapli kabab and chicken karahi. It was a delightful journey without McDonald's, KFC, and Pizzas and expensive malls. And the regret is, we forgot to take pictures of the food and shops. But that's OK, something to learn on the first visit. 
We did some shopping on our way back. Embroidery and wooden work are their specialties. The place is also known for dry-fruits, antique jewelry, and warm clothes. So I just bought a couple of shawls and gloves.

There are a lot of more memories to write, a lot of pictures to post, but what is always with me is the lessons I learned in my first journey; Traveling gives us wings. It makes us feel lighter. It teaches us how heavy the technologies and luxuries are. It teaches us the healing capacities of nature. It teaches us faith and handling uncertainties. And above all, it teaches us to live in minimalism.